My philosophy of writing is: tell a good story first, layer in art (including themes, morals, etc.) second. Not that artistry is truly secondary to the story--they are symbiotes--but if the story captures the reader, the artistry won't bother them. Not having seen TÁR, I can only guess that there wasn't enough obvious story there to capture this reviewer's interest, which left them frustrated and irritated.
At the same time, I agree that one has to be careful with dealing with subjects not readily accessible to the average reader/viewer. When I wrote my first novel, "The Fibonacci Murders," I was careful not to overdo the mathematical aspect of the crimes. A small number of people did say they wished there had been more math in the novel, but had I done that, I would have lost most of my audience!